Turned shoe



.ng l.

F. WI HUMAN.

TURNED SHOE.

APPLICATION FILED FEB.11, 1920.

Patented Aug. 17, 1920.

fnvezeoyr am .QAMB l y oforn UNITED STA TES PATENT OFFICE.

` FRANK w. HoMAN, orfPHILADELPHVIA,l PENNSYLVANIA.

TURNED SHOE.

V-Specication'of Letters Patient. Patented Allg'. 17,( 1920'.

, VA.pplica'tinrfiled February 11, 11920. Sei-iai` No.` 357,920.

facture of turned shoes having covered heels, z'. e.,"heels furnished with 'coverings of leather, cloth, or felt.

The drawings show in longitudinal section in Figure l the'lower portion of a shoe embodying the invention. f

Fig. 2 is a view showing the sole an lieel of the shoe ofv Fig. l, as connectedtogether prior to being lasted, witha small.v

p part of the toe-portion broken away.

Fig. 3 is a top View of the parts that are shown in Fig. 2. A

Fig. 4 is a view representingl inl'o'ngitudinal section a portion'v of a. last with the shoe thereon, showing'the shoe as it ap' pears after being lasted and stitched, and also trimmed, but before being turned.

Fig. 5 is a bottom view of the shoe in the stage shown in Fig. 4.

Referring to the drawings The sole l is considerably shorter than the shoe, itV being only a little longer than the forepart and shank; that is to say, it is just long enough to enable its rear endportion to lie upon the forward portion of the heel 2 and extend over lsuch portion sufficiently to receive one or more tacks 3, 3, which fasten the sole and heel together. Preferably two or more tacks are employed, in order .to prevent the short sole and the heel from swinging out of line with each other. The sole is channeled at 4, along both side-margins thereof, and around the toe-portion.

The portion of the heel-covering 5 that extends above the top of the heel provides a projecting flange 5L around the backand at both sides of the heel. At the heelbreast the top marginal portion 5b of the heel-covering is folded over backward on top of the heel, and is overlaid by the overlapping portion of the sole. 1

In lasting the shoe, YI use a last L, Fig. 4, having the heel-part thereof recessed to accommodate the heel 2. I apply thereto ,tiimmed, turned, re-lasted, and

the 4combined sole and heel, with Vthe flesh j sidey of the sole turned uppermost and theV Fig.-4 The upper d'6, counter-stiifener 7, and lining 8 which covers the counter-stiff- Iener in the finished shoe, are applied to the lasted sole and heel as shown in Figs. 4 and 5. Around the fore-part of the shoe and at the shank thereof` the sole and upper are connected -together by means of stitches 4b engaging with the lip 4n ofthe channel and the flange of the upper. Atl the heel-end of the shoe the flanges of the lieel-.covering,

upper, counter-stiffener, and counter-lining, are connectedftogether by stitches 4 extending around the'heel.

' Following the stitching, the shoe is subjected toL the usual finishing operations. At f, Fig. '1, is showna'shoe-bottom filler which occupies thehollow in the turned shoe, within the intuinedfflange of the upper, and at s,

same figure, is indicated alining or remov able insole. y Y V My invention enables me to use nj Inaking v"a shoe ofa given'siZe-number aV sole much smaller than required in making'V a shoe of ordinary construction of that size-V number, namely no larger than one such as, in thecase of a shoe of usual construction, is used for a much smaller size-number. For instance, in making a middlesize ladies shoe, either a No. 4- or a No. 5, I use only a 13 size missesrsole, such being the smallest size of misses sole, making a difference in costl equal at present prices to one-third of the cost of the pair of soles used Vin making a pair of shoes.

Preferably the sole, prior to attachment to the heel, is so cut and shaped at its heelend as to reduce in width the portion thereof which laps over upon' the top of the heel, and produce shoulders at opposite sides to determine the size of the sole (measured from tip of toe-end to heel-end), and to guidein combining the sole and heel and getting thev heel properly squared with reference to the ysole before the two are fastened together.

The object of a feature of invention to which I shallV now refer is to prevent the covering of the heel from being` loosened from the sides of the heel in the process of stitching the parts of the shoe together at 4 heel'entered into the recess of the last, as in the heel. Such loosening would render the heel of the nished shoe more or less unsightly and also open to the objection of being free to move cross-*Wise Vof the shoe,

' or at any rate presenting the appearance of loose attachment. This feature consists Ward around the sides and'backl of the heel..

The stitches 4C at the heel pass through the said projecting flange. The said piece of material resists the-strain in stitchingwhich tends to separate the vheel-covering"from the vertical portion of the heel', and itholds thehee'l from lateral play in the case of the finished shoe; It is cemented tothe baseV of the heel, and, in addition, the tacks which unite the heel and" sole together pass through vit so as effectually tof prevent itl from pulling Yover sidewise` in any direction.V I also preferably make aline of stitches around'the basekoftheheel', unit` ing the'top-iianges of the heel-covering `and the marginal flange of the staylpiece together7 priorV to fastening the heel and sole together in the preliminary assembling of these two parts together. What is claimed as the invention is,-"-

portion of said heel and attached thereto in a piece l() of cloth, or other suitablemateriah capable of meeting the require-v r by fasten-ing means engaging with theover'- lapping portions7 and an upper with Which the combined sole-section and heel are connected` by fastenings engaging With the Ysole-section and passing through the upper portion of the heel-covering around the sides and baclrof the heel.

2". A shoe* comprising a'covered heel having a stay-piece fastened toits top surface,` a `torepart-and-sl'iank `sol'esection .partly V45 Ward portion offsaid heel and attachedY overlapping by its rear extremitythe forthereto by yfastening 'means engaging Withv the' overlapping portions,y and an upper with which the combined sole-section land heel are connected' by fastenings' engaging With the sol'e-sectionand" passing through the up-A per portion of the' heel-coveringV and the margin o r flange of the saidstay-piece aroundvthe sides and back ofthe heel.

3. A shoe having a heel furnished' with a covering that entends above the top supj face oi" the heel, and a stay-piece that is fastened' tothe said top surface,l and having also Vthe shoe-upper connectedwith the upper margin of saidv l'ieel-cover'mg and with the margin ofthe stay-piece,v around` the sides and back of Vthe heel.`

In testimony whereof ailix my signature l in presence of'tiv'o Witnesses'. l. Ashoe comprising a covered heel, a; Y torepart-and-shank'sole-section partly over-A lapping by its rear extremity the forward kFRANI Wr.' HUMAN. Witnesses: Y Y 'Y NATHAN Billar;

' ELLEN O'. Srnae'." 

